Travel
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Charleston, South Carolina
Charleston is great for a couple’s trip or a girl’s trip. It’s the perfect place for foodies, historians, golfers and shoppers.
Best Hotels
The Wyndham Mill House: Great location, a very nice / old hotel (photo of their courtyard at right) with great public bathrooms on the main floor for when you’re out exploring, nice restaurant on-site, across from Husk and Poogan’s Porch http://www.millshouse.com/- Belmond Hotel: The best (and most expensive) hotel in Charleston, it also has a nice spa but you don’t need to stay here to book spa services. http://www.belmond.com/charleston-place/
- Market Pavilion: great location near the waterfront, nice rooftop bar and pool http://www.marketpavilion.com/
- Kings Courtyard Inn: on King Street / great location, no restaurant but your rate includes a continental breakfast delivered to your room or in one of their courtyards, a wine and cheese reception from 5 – 6 and sherry after dinner https://www.kingscourtyardinn.com/ Book a Parlor Suite (pictured below) to get a King bedroom including a separate living room with TV, desk, fireplace and lots of windows.
Things to Do
Two Sisters walking tour – 2 hours and 15 minutes, $20 / person cash only, (many things listed below will be covered on this tour) I highly recommend doing this on your first full day to get a feel for the city. http://www.twosisterstours.com/about.php- Carriage ride through the historic district
- King Street – huge shopping street
- Battery & White Point Garden – the Southern tip on Charleston peninsula, lots of history here
- Waterfront Park (the East side of Charleston)
- Cathedral of Saint John the Baptist
- Michael’s Church – George Washington sat in pew #43, original organ, Tiffany stained glass, a must see
- Nathaniel Russell House – recommended over the Heyword tour, knowledgeable tour guides, great history of Charleston
- Edmondston-Alston House – must see, best views of the waterfront
- Heyword Washington House
- Aiken-Rhett House – can buy a tour combo with Nathaniel Russell House
- Joseph Manigault House
- Old Exchange & Provost Dungeon – great tour, worth a visit
- Historic Charleston City Market – on Market Street, shops with farmers market style items (jewelry, crafts, local art, food) http://www.thecharlestoncitymarket.com/
- College of Charleston – stroll through the campus, beautiful old buildings
- Old Jail – walk by, lots of ghost sitings here. There is also a ghost tour here that could be worth taking https://www.nps.gov/nr/travel/charleston/old.htm
- Rainbow Row – beautiful, pastel painted homes along the waterfront
Plantations (rent a car for the day) Avis, Budget and Enterprise are a 5 minute Uber from the hotels – they are all in the same building. It is walkable but if you’re going to a Plantation, you’ll already be walking a lot. Take note that many plantation owners also had homes in the city of Charleston. I highly recommend visiting both a home in Charleston and a plantation home.
- McLeod Plantation (13 minute drive) http://south-carolina-plantations.com/charleston/mcleod.html
- Boone Hall (30 minute drive, Mt Pleasant) http://www.boonehallplantation.com/
- Magnolia Plantation and Gardens (35 minute drive North) http://www.magnoliaplantation.com/ the most visited plantation and gardens, National Registry of Historic places, world famous gardens, owned by the Drayton family, original house burned down, This one could take several hours if you choose to see / tour everything.
- Drayton Hall (35 minute drive North – next to Magnolia) http://www.draytonhall.org/
- Middleton Place (35 minute drive, 5 miles North of Magnolia) https://www.middletonplace.org/ plantation with nice gardens, the original house was burned down
Restaurants
There is no shortage of amazing restaurants in Charleston. Check TripAdvisor, Yelp, OpenTable, etc. and make reservations for dinner. The best restaurants are booked out months in advance.
Lunch / Cocktails
- Caviar & Bananas: great gourmet market and café (think Dean & Deluca), near Charleston College (also in the Charleston airport)
- Callie’s Biscuits: 188 Meeting Street or 476 ½ King Street (get breakfast here one day – there will be a line on the weekends, so yummy!)
- Pavilion Bar: rooftop bar with amazing views, great lunch spot, 10 minute walk from 80 Broad http://www.marketpavilion.com/pavilionbar.cfm
- The Watch Rooftop (The Restoration Hotel): great views, good lunch and appetizer menus http://www.therestorationhotel.com/the-watch/menu
- The Palmetto Café (The Belmond Hotel): best lunch in Charleston, elegant, great crab and avocado salad http://belmondcdn.azureedge.net/pdfs//PalmettoCafeLunch_Spring17.pdf
- Fleet Landing Restaurant & Bar: seafood restaurant on the pier, don’t go here if there’s a cruise ship in port http://fleetlanding.net/
- Bin 152: King Street wine bar with cheese and charcuterie
- Eli’s Table: upscale spot for Southern bites, great shrimp & grits, courtyard, would work for lunch or dinner
- Kitchen 208: brunch and lunch place (closes at 3 PM)
Dinner / Cocktails
- Halls Chophouse: #1 restaurant in Charleston, nationally recognized steakhouse, $$$$$, make reservations far in advance https://hallschophouse.com/
- Magnolias: upscale take on Southern classics https://magnoliascharleston.com/
- McCrady’s Tavern: fun, mixology cocktails; beautiful old building http://mccradystavern.com/
- Carmella’s: café & dessert bar, they make great boozy ice cream drinks and have yummy desserts http://carmellasdessertbar.com/ (close to Magnolias and McCrady’s Tavern for dessert)
- Poogan’s Porch: http://www.poogansporch.com/across the street from Mill House
- Husk: http://www.huskrestaurant.com/home/across the street from Mill House, signature item Manhattans made by the cask and aged – different recipes on a rotating basis
- Husk bar: in the old brick building next to the restaurant, great little spot for a cocktail https://www.kingscourtyardinn.com/
- Circa 1886: http://www.circa1886.com/great old house converted into a restaurant, a top Charleston restaurant
- Charleston Grill (The Belmond Hotel): fancy, nice variety of foods from Southern classics to healthy choices https://www.charlestongrill.com/web/ochg/charleston_grill.jsp
- Peninsula Grill: elevated Southern cuisine, get the famous ultimate coconut cake– the girls all agreed this was our favorite fancy restaurant, it was full of old-school locals on Sunday night https://www.peninsulagrill.com/
Tips
Look at a map of Charleston and take note of a few streets to familiarize yourself with the layout.
Broad Street runs East and West and neighborhoods are referred to as South of Broad or North of Broad, most of the homes South of Broad are very historic and beautiful, a great area to explore during morning walks.- King Street runs North and South parallel to Meeting Street, this is a one-way street with lots of shopping & restaurants, this area is called the Business District.
- Market Street runs East and West and also has many shops and restaurants.
- Meeting Street runs North and South and the area to the East is called the French Quarter.
- Bay Street runs North / South in the French Quarter and is close to or along the water (depending how far South you are), there are many restaurants North of Broad.
Bring comfortable walking shoes for morning walks and shopping; there are many cobblestone streets and alleys. If you bring heels for dinner I’d suggest a chunky short heel or a wedge due to the uneven sidewalks and cobblestone.
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How to Get There and Where to Stay
How to Get There
Most big trips involve airplane travel, so my tips are focused on finding the best airfare prices.
- Join the frequent-flyer program of every airline you fly. It’s free and some offer perks even before you accrue miles.
- Consider signing up for your main airline’s credit card and using it for travel – not only will you get free perks (many allow free checked bags and priority boarding), but you will accrue points for an upgraded flyer status faster.
- Sign up for travel updates and/or free alerts from Airfarewatchdog, Thrifty Traveler, Jetsetter or Travelzoo.
- Use Kayak to track prices and look in the upper left corner for advice on when to buy, although I usually prefer to buy direct from the airline once I’ve found the price and times I want.
- Always search using Incognito mode. Try either Command (or Control), Shift, “N” or Command, Shift, “P” or under File, select “New Private Window” depending on which internet browser you use. This will prevent the airline from tracking your searches after you close your search window.
- For the best price, try to travel during the middle of the week instead of on the weekend. Friday and Sunday are typically the most expensive days to travel.
- Search for airfare prices over multiple days and at different times. Typically, pricing on weekdays are better than on the weekends.
- If you’re traveling internationally, look at breaking up your trip. For example, when we fly to Copenhagen this spring I purchased a round trip ticket to Amsterdam on Delta and then a ticket from Amsterdam to Copenhagen on a local carrier and saved over $500 / ticket. Just make sure to allow enough time for customs. If you miss your flight because you booked them too close together, the airline isn’t responsible for getting you on a new flight since you purchased the flights separately.
- A guide for when to purchase for the best deal: domestic flights should be purchased between 30 days and three months before departure, international should be purchased two to six months before departure.
Where to Stay
Hotels
When booking a hotel, the first place I look is TripAdvisor.com. You can enter your hotel criteria (location, price, amenities, class, etc.) Read the reviews but don’t get hung up on one bad review – some people just like to complain.
Some things to think about when reading reviews: Do several guests complain about the same thing – dirty bathrooms, construction noise, slow service at the pool – and is that something that’s important to you or not. If people complained about room service, but you never get room service, not an issue. Did management respond to the complaint? Was it a canned response or do they really seem concerned and willing to correct the problem?
Think about your location. If it’s more expensive to stay close to the things you want to see (museums, beaches, theater, etc.) consider the cost and time of transportation. If you need to rent a car, take into account the nightly parking rate at the hotel. Before you book that less expensive room, just make sure you won’t be spending all of the money you saved on transportation and parking.
When you’re ready to book, pull up your hotel on TripAdvisor and at the top of the page click on Room Tips. Again, read through these and determine what’s important to you. I almost always include a room request with my hotel booking.
Join the hotels reward program, even if you don’t travel enough to earn free stays, many programs offer free bottled water and a free welcome gift for reward program members.
All-inclusive Resorts
I’ve stayed at a couple all-inclusive resorts and they typically are not my favorite; but if you’re traveling with a large group or you are on a remote island where there aren’t many options for restaurants, it might be a good idea.
A few things to consider:
- Ask about restaurant reservations in advance, many all-inclusive resort restaurants allow reservations and if you haven’t made one for your first night in advance you’ll be stuck eating at whatever restaurant has an opening.
- Ask if all the resort restaurants are included in your rate or is there an up-charge for the nicer restaurants.
- Ask about liquor. Is there wine and beer only or does it include hard liquor? Is it top shelf liquor or rail?
- Ask about included transportation and activities.
Redweek.com
This is a site where people sell their timeshare week(s). If you’re staying in one location for at least one week, check this site.
VRBO / Home Away / Airbnb:
There are so many reasons to consider these options.
- It’s nice to have access to a kitchen when traveling.
- Sometimes the only way to stay in a specific area is to rent a house or apartment.
- It’s fun to feel like a local, especially for an extended stay.
- If you’re traveling with family and / or friends it’s nice to have shared spaces to gather.
I’ve had great success with all of the websites above. Research location, study the photos, read reviews and ask the owner questions. If the owner is rude or doesn’t respond quickly before you book, he/she isn’t likely to respond if you have a problem with the property during your trip.
See my post “How to Choose a Vacation Rental and Make it Feel Like Home” for more tips.
If you have any travel tips related to airfare or booking a place to stay, please share in the Comments.
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Pebble Beach and Carmel Valley, California
John and I took our first trip to Pebble Beach and Carmel Valley for our 25th Wedding Anniversary. We loved it so much, we repeated the trip for our 28th anniversary; except this time, we went to Carmel Valley first and then to Pebble Beach. This is a two-location trip and I’ll tell you why, Pebble Beach is on the coast and its often foggy and cool while just 15 miles inland at Carmel Valley there are clear blue skies and sunshine.
My first tip for any trip: If you have a list of hotels and resorts you are interested in, join their email list as early as possible. Many will send you package deals that aren’t always listed on their website. I worked with a concierge at Pebble Beach and from the time I booked our room until we took our trip, there were room / golf packages added and we were able to save a significant amount of money. When I booked, the concierge told me exactly when to look for the packages to be posted and to call her back for the reduced rate. I couldn’t have waited for the package before booking our room because the category of room we wanted was completely booked by the time the package prices were released.
How to Get There:
Fly into Monterey airport and rent a car, preferably a convertible.
PEBBLE BEACH
Where to Stay:
The Inn at Spanish Bay
The Lodge at Pebble Beach is a hub of activity and a huge tourist stop. So, I suggest staying at the Inn. There is a complimentary shuttle to The Lodge, the restaurants, the spa and all of the Pebble Beach golf courses. If you are celebrating a special event, be sure to tell the concierge; most likely you’ll receive a complimentary treat in your room.
Where to Eat:
General Dining-out Tip – Make a reservation! Even if it’s just for lunch, the restaurant staff appreciate it and typically you will be seated at a nicer table. If your golf round is running late, just call and they’ll gladly adjust your reservation.
The Bench at The Lodge is a great lunch stop after playing the Pebble Beach Golf Links. If it’s nice, eat lunch outside around the fire pits on the patio.
Sticks at Spanish Bay is also a great lunch or happy hour stop with fire ribbon tables on their patio.
Stillwater Bar & Grill at The Lodge – consider this your fancy night at Pebble Beach.
The windows overlook the 18th hole at Pebble Beach, go early for a cocktail in The Terrace Lounge by one of the fireplaces. Make sure to order a bottle of the Pebble Beach Memories Pinot Noir. It might not be the best wine on the menu, but the bottle is pretty awesome.
Roy’s at Spanish Bay – delicious Hawaiian-Fusion cuisine
La Bicyclette in Carmel-by-the-Sea – stop for lunch to share a wood-oven fired pizza and order the mousse au chocolat topped with fresh chocolate curls. YUM!
Cantinetta Luca in Carmel-by-the-Sea – fresh, authentic Italian food
Things to Do:
Obviously, if you’re a golfer – GOLF! Even if you aren’t a golfer, but you’re traveling with one, consider walking the Pebble Beach Golf Links course. The views of the course, the coast and the homes are amazing. Much to my husband’s dismay, I missed several of his “great shots” while I was taking photos of the area. Oops!
To the North of Pebble Beach: Explore Monterey and walk around Cannery Row. Drive along the coast back to Pebble Beach. Stop at the Beach House Restaurant and Bar at Lover’s Point for a cocktail with great views of the water. At Point Pinos, stop and tour the historic Lighthouse.
Enjoy the 17-Mile Drive through Pebble Beach. If you’re staying at a Pebble Beach hotel, you already have access to the 17-Mile Drive without paying the admission fee. Just ask for a map at the gate and make sure to take a photo at the Lone Cypress.
Carmel-by-the-Sea is just outside the Pebble Beach gate near The Lodge. Spend a day exploring this adorable town and its shops. Look for the free Carmel Coast Weekly – a newspaper with lists of current activities. Explore the Scenic Road Walkway, book a tour at Tor House, purchase a “passport” for the Carmel Wine Walk and try to locate The Secret Garden.
Continue South of Carmel on Highway 1 for a scenic drive to Big Sur. Stop and take a short hike at the Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park for beautiful photos of McWay Falls. Consider ordering a picnic lunch from the Pebble Beach Market for your adventure.
Around 5:45 each day, the bagpiper will walk from the #1 tee on The Links at Spanish Bay for the closing of the course. He will stop by the patio outside The Lobby Lounge. Make sure to catch this iconic event at least once during your stay. Go early to secure a spot by one of the fire pits. Bring a warm wrap or sweater; when the sun sets, it will get cold!
CARMEL VALLEY
Where to Stay:
Bernardus Lodge & Spa: The rooms, the food and the spa are all amazing.
Where to Eat:
The Valley Kitchen at Carmel Valley Ranch is a must. Go early to wander the grounds and enjoy the sunset. (photo, left: the vegetarian risotto was amazing!)
Lucia’s Chef’s Table – splurge on the Chef’s table, we did this both trips and each experience was amazing. This table has seen numerous celebrities, many who have written on the wall around the booth and include Julia Child and Leonardo DiCaprio. (Obviously, this must be booked in advance and be sure to inform the kitchen of any dietary restrictions when booking.)
Lucia’s – Try the $44 Duck Burger topped with Foie Gras. (photo, right) John talked with one of the chefs about this burger during our Chef’s Table experience and we had to go back to the dining room the following night so he could order it. He says it was amazing!
Things to Do:
Bernardus Spa: book at least one spa service during your stay and spend some time in the adults only spa pool.
Hiking – ask for a map at the front desk, there are several great hikes depending on how far and strenuous you’d like your hike to be.
Wine Tastings – this isn’t Napa, but there are several wineries in the area. Go to West Carmel Valley Road where there are numerous tasting rooms. If you’re traveling with a group consider the Wine Trolley Tour.
Folktale Winery Tasting (photo at right) – great gardens and yard games, tasty cheese board, wine tastings daily from 11 am – 8 pm, check their website calendar to make sure there aren’t any private events.
Holman Ranch Tour and Tasting – this is an incredible event venue that is booked out years in advance for weddings. We had a private tour and tasting from one of the owners. I was hoping our tour would include a peak at the venue, but unfortunately, there were guests arriving for the weekend and we weren’t able to tour that area.
Since we love this area, I’m sure we’ll be back. If you have any favorite activities or restaurants in the area, please tell me about them in the comments and I’ll add them to my list for our next trip.
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How to Choose a Vacation Rental and Make It Feel Like Home
When we decided to head South and work remotely for two months during the winter, we thought about what we wanted in a rental; a fenced backyard where our dog could roam, a nice kitchen where we could cook healthy meals, a bedroom or two for guests, a place for each of us to work on our computers, and a patio with a heated pool and grill where we could hang out and entertain.
My favorite sites for rentals are Vacation Rentals by Owner (vrbo.com) and AirBNB. Also, enter the name of the place you are visiting with the words “vacation rentals” for local rental companies. You can typically enter your criteria, for example: single family home, pet friendly, neighborhood, pool and the number of bedrooms and bathrooms. For the best selection, start looking early. (Since requiring a pet-friendly rental narrowed our choices dramatically, we booked our rental 12 months before our trip. Bonus: The cost of our rental increased before our stay, but we were locked in at last year’s price.) Confirm the location, read the amenities and reviews, study the photos, read the bio of the owner and then tag your favorite properties. I quickly ruled out homes that were over decorated with knick-knacks, personal photos, too much furniture, etc. because that’s not my style and I don’t want to feel like I’m living in someone else’s house. I prefer rentals with a minimalistic decor where I can add my own touches with candles, throw blankets, flowers, plants, etc.
The next step is to message with the owner. For example, even though I only saw homes with pools I couldn’t always tell if they were heated or if there was an additional charge for heating the pool. This required email exchanges with several properties and quickly narrowed our choices. Also, some properties will give you a discount for an extended stay. It doesn’t hurt to ask.
Some vacation rentals are investment properties that are professionally managed and completely cleaned out after each renter, while others are vacation homes for the owner. You can typically figure out which one your rental is by reading the owner’s bio. If it’s a vacation home for the owner there may be items left behind in the cupboards, closets, etc. Since the house we rented was an owner’s vacation home, we planned to spend the first afternoon cleaning and rearranging cupboards and closets to fit our needs for the next two months. As my husband and Dad unloaded the vehicle, my Mom and I pulled out the cleaning supplies and started scrubbing down the kitchen. My Mom pulled everything out of the cupboards and drawers. I put pantry items that were left-over from the owner (or other guests) that we didn’t need or want, in an empty box and tucked it away in a back closet until the day we moved out. Then I put the dishes, glasses, cookware, etc. I planned to use regularly in easy to reach cupboards. I wiped down the inside of the fridge and dumped the old ice in the ice-maker. Once the kitchen was clean, we were ready to make a grocery run.
Here are some of my tips for making a rental feel like home:
- Scents – I always travel with candles and room sprays, even to resorts and hotels. Since we were staying for two months, I also purchased some diffusers.
- Throw blankets – if you have room and it’s important to you, bring your own. If not, I usually gather up the blankets I like and throw them in the washer.
- Bed pillow – most people have a pillow preference. If you can’t bring your own pillow, check all the guest rooms until you find a pillow you like and switch them out.
- Knives & a cutting board – I haven’t found a rental that has good, sharp knives. Since I like to cook, having good knives is important to me. A paring knife and a chef’s knife should get you through the basics.
- Kitchen essentials – everyone has kitchen tools they use on a regular basis. A few things necessary for me are a good blender, YETIs, an assortment of spices, a simple citrus juicer, an ice cube tray (to make lemon juice ice cubes for my morning hot water), a cocktail shaker and shot glass. Check the list of amenities in your rental before packing (or touch base with the owner) to see if the items you want are already there.
- Hangers – if you usually need to request extra hangers when you stay at a hotel, odds are there won’t be enough hangers in your rental. If you don’t have room to bring hangers, check the dollar store once you arrive at your destination.
- Laundry basket – not only is a laundry basket great for transporting items, it’s nice to have a basket in your closet for collecting dirty laundry.
- Beach / pool towels – many rentals have old bath towels or cheap beach towels for using at the pool. If a big fluffy towel is important to you, bring your own or plan to purchase some at your destination.
- Personal bathroom products – most rentals do not supply shampoo, conditioner, body wash, etc. so bring your own. I also like to bring hotel samples that I’ve collected during our travels for the guest bathroom in case our guests don’t bring any.
- Cleaning supplies – most rentals have basic cleaning supplies, laundry detergent, dish soap, etc. If you have strong brand preferences, plan to purchase your own once you arrive.
Now that your rental is starting to feel comfortable; it’s time to invite guests and have fun.
If you have any tips for selecting a vacation rental or how to make it feel like home, please share in the comments below.
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Choosing a Travel Destination
I love to travel. I’m not necessarily the best travel planner in the world but I am very organized and a little obsessive when planning a trip. Therefore, my friends and family know if I have been somewhere they are going, I most likely have a document compiled with what I think are some of the best hotels, restaurants and things to do in the area. So, I thought I’d share my trip planning process in a series of posts.
How to Pick Your Destination
Most people have a destination in mind, but if you’re planning a trip from scratch, consider who you’re traveling with and what they like to do. Is it a vacation with your spouse, family with children, another couple, a girlfriend or two, or a large group?
Spouse or Significant Other: I love planning a trip with just my husband. Usually we’ll brainstorm about what we’d like to do or come up with a general destination such as going South for warmer weather, going to visit friends, or going to see a historical landmark or area we’ve never been. Honestly, most people have no shortage of trip ideas.
Family including children: Traveling with children has its own challenges. No one wants to listen to a whiny child on a vacation so it’s worth your time to plan a family trip they will enjoy. When our children were young, we went to an all-inclusive resort in Playa del Carmen with a Kids Program. When we mentioned the Kids Club to our children, neither one wanted to go. The next day we told them if they agreed to go we would come back in one hour and if they weren’t having fun, they didn’t have to go again the entire trip. When we checked in an hour later, we were thrilled to discover our children were having a blast and they promptly told us to leave. The next morning our children were up bright and early and kept asking if the Kids Club was open yet. Win – Win!
Couples: When planning a trip with another couple think about what you enjoy doing together. When planning a trip with our favorite cocktail and dinner companions, I knew good restaurants and cocktails would be important but we also wanted some fun daily activities – Napa Valley was a perfect fit! We also know a few couples where the guys like to golf while the ladies prefer to “spa” or shop. I haven’t found a golf destination that doesn’t have a spa and good shopping. And, I’ve been to A LOT of golf destinations!
Girlfriends: When planning a trip with girlfriends think about how active they like to be; for example, I have one friend who would be happy to sit by the pool all day and go out to a nice dinner every night. I have another friend who would go nuts sitting by the pool all day and has to do something active like going on a hike or bike ride. The common theme with most of my girlfriend trips seem to include some form of relaxation (beach, pool, spa, yoga), some sort of activity (museums, hiking, theatre, concerts) and enjoying great restaurants.
Groups: Typically, a group trip starts with a destination and then the group grows. For example, we are currently planning a group trip to Scotland. This trip started when the men were all golfing one day and discussed how they all wanted to golf in Scotland. And, my smart husband said, “I can’t go to Scotland without my wife.” Or it might have been, “My wife would kill me if I went to Scotland without her…” Regardless, all of the other men quickly agreed and it became a group trip with four couples.
Once you know who you’re going with and have a general idea of where you’re going, it’s time to start your research and finalize your destination. Talk to friends and family who travel, request recommendations on Facebook and search online. Some of my favorite travel information sites include: TripAdvisor, Travel and Leisure, Jetsetter, Thrifty Traveler and Pinterest. I also tear pages out of magazines whenever I read about a fun travel destination and keep them in my travel folder. If I come across a great travel destination online, I’ll add it to my Travel folder on Pinterest. Once you select your destination, you’ll need to get there and you’ll need some place to stay.
Next Up: How to Get There and Where to Stay
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